Crostata di Rabarbaro e Frangipane
OK, I admit: the title I’ve given this recipe is just an Italian name for a dessert I found on the Internet called rhubarb Bakewell tart. But, if you consider the components ~ a sweet, butter-rich pastry (aka pasta frolla) and a thick layer of almond cream (frangipane) sandwiched between layers of jammy fruit ~ you can see why this tart could pass for Italian.
It’s only in the last couple of years that I learned about Bakewell tart, and that is thanks to the Great British Bake Off, which I’ve been re-watching during the lockdown (hello, escapism!). Judge Mary Berry’s version is an elegant take, with layers of raspberry jam and fraginpane and a smooth pink and white feathered glaze rather than the usual smattering of flaked almonds on top. The tart is apparently based on a dessert called Bakewell pudding, created by (happy) accident in the town of Bakewell, in Derbyshire County, sometime in the 1800s.
Rhubarb is not a traditional ingredient in Bakewell tart, but this variation caught my eye while I was searching for something to do with a big bunch that I had bought (my pandemic panic-buying is really weird). The combination of sour rhubarb and sweet, rich almond cream sounded irresistible. (BTW I also pickled some.)
I don’t think of rhubarb as an Italian ingredient, but I have seen it pop up here and there; in fact, I have a bottle of Zucca brand amaro called Rabarbaro, which, according to the label, has been produced in Italy since 1845 using rhubarb imported from the Gansu province of China.
Whether you call this rhubarb Bakewell tart or crostata di rabarbaro e frangipane doesn’t matter; it’s a lovely dessert that evokes spring with its pretty flashes of pink and bright, tart flavor.
CROSTATA DI RABARBARO E FRANGIPANE
Recipe adapted from Tesco Real Food; their website suggests serving this tart with Cornish (pouring) custard, but all it really needs is a dusting of powdered sugar and maybe a dollop of whipped cream.
Makes one 9-inch (23 cm) tart, to serve 10
INGREDIENTS
500g (1 lb) rhubarb, cut on the bias into 1-inch (2 1/2 cm) lengths
225g (8 oz; 1 cup plus 2 Tbsp) sugar
2 Tbsp freshly squeezed orange juice, plus a little zest
1/2 batch Pasta Frolla (freeze the rest for another use or roll it out, cut into cookies and bake)
150g (5.2 oz; 11 tablespoons) softened butter
100g (3 1/2 oz; 1 cup) almond flour or ground almonds
50g (1.8 oz; 1/3 cup plus 1 tbsp) unbleached all-purpose flour
2 large eggs
1/4 tsp pure almond extract
1 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp fine salt
Handful blanched sliced (flaked) almonds
Confectioners’ sugar for dusting
Whipped cream for serving
INSTRUCTIONS
1. Heat the oven to 350° F (180° C). Toss the rhubarb with 75 g (rounded 1/3 cup) sugar, the orange juice, and the zest. Spread it out on a small rimmed baking sheet or baking dish and roast for 20 minutes. Let cool.
2. On a lightly floured surface, roll out the pasta frolla to an 11-inch (28-cm) circle. Carefully wrap the dough around the rolling pin and drape it over a 9-inch (23-cm) fluted tart pan with a removable bottom. Gently press the dough into the bottom and up the sides of the pan. Use the rolling pin or the flat of your hand to press around the perimeter of the pan to cut off any excess dough. Chill in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.
3. Line the pastry shell with parchment paper or foil and fill with pie weights, rice, or beans. Bake for 15 minutes; remove the parchment and pie weights and bake 10 minutes more, until the bottom of the shell is pale gold.
4. Using a stand or hand mixer, beat together all but 1 tablespoon of the remaining sugar, butter, almond flour, all-purpose flour, eggs, almond extract, baking powder, and salt until creamy.
5. Drain the rhubarb and reserve the syrup. Mash half the rhubarb and spread it over the bottom of the tart shell. Dollop the frangipane (almond cream mixture) on top of the mashed rhubarb and spread it evenly out with an angled spatula. Scatter the remaining rhubarb pieces over the frangipane; then sprinkle the flaked almonds and 1 tablespoon sugar on top.
6. Bake for 45 to 50 minutes, until the filling is puffed, golden and just set. Set on a rack to cool until just warm. Remove the outer ring and slide the tart off its base onto a serving plate. Dust with confectioners’ sugar and serve with whipped cream.